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The art of the Texas brisket

In some states, barbecue is all about pulled pork, and in others, the magic is in the ribs. You'll find tangy vinegar sauce in the Carolinas, while Kansas City turned something called "burnt ends" into a downright sensation. Nowhere in the world will you find barbecued brisket quite like you do in Texas. You see, Texans are pretty serious when it comes to barbecueand they love a challenge. When you're in Texas on your locum tenens assignment, it's almost a rite of passage.

What is brisket?

Brisket comes from the pectoral muscles of a steer (sort of the beef equivalent of chicken breasts, though not nearly as tender). If you were to simply throw a brisket on the grill, it would be pretty tough. The top is usually covered in a thick layer of fat, which becomes ultra tender and flavorful after the brisket is cooked.

How do they make it?

Here's where it gets really serious: Many barbecue connoisseurs understand and appreciate the phrase "low and slow," which refers to cooking your meat at a low temperature for a long duration, but it's the smokers that truly set this state apart from the pack.

When you smoke a meat, all of that chewy and tough fat turns into something more akin to butter, while the meat itself needs a knife to penetrate it. This stuff melts in your mouth, which is amazing, considering how tough it is. The outside of the meat gets just the right amount of crust, holding in all those glorious juices, and different types of wood are used in the smoker to influence the flavor. A brisket is never injected with any liquidit's a self-basting process. Some folks will wrap it in foil during the last half of cooking, while others critique this practice as the "Texas crutch," reserved for those who can't make good meat without it.

Oh, yeah. And when we say "slow," we mean like 10 or 12 hours. (And you thought cooking a Thanksgiving turkey was a commitment.)

Where do I chow down?

Though you'll find great barbecue all over the state of Texas, most say that the best brisket is in Austin, Texas, at Franklin Barbecue. This stuff is so good, there are usually people lined up at 8:30 a.m.nearly three hours before the place even opens. It's a small price to pay for what Bon Appetit once named the best barbecue in the United States, though. What are you waiting for?